Tulips are some of my favorite flowers, for a variety of reasons. They're the first sure sign of spring, and they're the first splash of color we see after a long winter. The blooms don't last that long, but when they peak, they can be spectacular. Eventually, those beautiful blooms will fade and end up looking pretty pathetic. Though your first inclination might be to cut the plants down, don't. The plant is storing energy for next year's bulb. You can remove the spent blooms because you don't want the flower to go to seed. Simply remove the top. If you want to remove the stem as well, you can. Just don't remove the foliage, because that is what's sending energy down to next year's bulb. Let the leaves die back naturally. 
    One way to conceal your bulbs is to plant perennials. While the foliage from your bulbs is dying down, the perennials are growing up. You can also maintain the health of next year's bulb through fertilizing. You will know it is time to fertilize when the foliage turns from green to yellow. Simply scratch in an all-purpose fertilizer around the base of the stems. The bulbs planted in the fall for spring bloom have all the energy stored they will need to produce a beautiful flower. After the first spring, it is up to the gardener to see the bulbs create the energy they require for continual blooming seasons.  

      The first step is to deadhead the flowers once their flowering time has past. Much energy is wasted setting seed if the flower heads are left on. Cutting only the flower heads and leaving the stems to help in photosynthesis is important. Also note some spring bulbs set seeds and multiply naturally. Many gardeners fertilize in the fall, but fertilizing can also be done in spring when growth has begun with a complete, slow-release, granular fertilizer with higher phosphorus (the middle number). I usually use 6-9-5 or 5-10-5 and work it into the first inch or two of the soil on a rainy day so it is watered in naturally. This will satisfy the bulbs all spring, but some also prefer to water with a liquid fertilizer just after blooming to give the bulbs an extra boost. The third step is to think of the leaves to be just as important as the flowers. Although they last much longer than the flowers, up to 10 to 12 weeks for daffodils, they must be cared for, not cut down. Years ago, gardeners wove or braided the unsightly leaves, but this allows less surface area exposed to the sun for photosynthesis. Bulbs completely exhaust their nutrients when they bloom and need to replenish it for the next spring. Allowing the leaves to die naturally is best. Watering will improve the growth of bulbs if it is a dry spring. This was not a problem in Nova Scotia until the past few years. The recent dry springs required some watering during rainless weeks. Remember to water the base of the plants instead of from above.  If a large part of the garden is dedicated to spring bulbs, an unruly sight may be faced for several weeks if careful planning did not accompany planting. Many perennials can be planted with bulbs not only to fill the space after they have faded, but to hide the flowerless and yellowing leaves. Astilbes, bleeding hearts, chives, day lilies, hosta and ornamental grasses can be planted in front of or around spring bulbs. For shorter leaves, candytuft (Iberis), phlox, pachysandra, rock cress (Arabis) and snow-in-summer (Cerastium) can be used.
    For the most part, deadheading and fertilizing will be the only chore, but occasionally more work will be necessary. If your daffodils send up lots of stems, but no flowers, it usually indicates the bulbs are overcrowded. The bulbs will not flower this spring because they are competing for a small supply of nutrients and moisture. Once the leaves turn yellow, dig up the bulbs, separate the daughter bulbs from the mother, enrich the bed with compost and fertilizer, then replant. Daffodils should be replanted immediately and not stored through the summer. Once the leaves turn yellow, tulips can be separated and transplanted right away. If you decide to wait until the fall for replanting, the bulbs will need a little special care. Once the leaves have turned brown, dig them up and clean off the excess dirt by carefully brushing or washing them. Pick out the rotten bulbs and separate the daughter bulblets from the mother bulbs. The bulbs must then be dried to prevent rotting. Spread them on a tray in a warm, dry place, away from direct sunlight. After they are dried, dust them well with garden sulfur which acts as a natural fungicide. Place the dusted bulbs in a well-ventilated bag and hang them from the rafters of a cool, dry place to prevent mould. Some gardeners use old nylon stockings or onion bags. Tulip bulbs can be stored three months or more, but must be planted the following fall between mid-September and the end of October. They cannot be stored over winter. A few bulbs should not be disturbed unless absolutely necessary. The snowdrop does best when left alone, but if they must be transplanted, wait until the leaves die then dig them up. Snowdrops dry out quickly and need to be transplanted immediately.
    By following these simple rules, your spring-flowering bulbs should bring you much pleasure for many years. Remember, there is no exact science to gardening and what works for one may not work for another. Experiment and have fun!