Do not be fooled into thinking
that only rosarians and gardeners can produce beautiful, healthy garden roses.
With the right know-how, anyone can have a successful rose garden.
Choosing
your roses
Before going to buy your roses, you must answer some important questions.
What hardiness zone do you live in? Roses have different levels of
hardiness and will only thrive in certain hardiness zones. All our roses
are grown right in Canada, and as a result, they are well suited to the
variable and sometimes harsh Canadian weather conditions. How much time
are you willing to spend in maintaining your roses? It is important to
remember, for example, that some roses are not as hardy as others, and they
require extra attention. What types of roses appeal to you most?
There are many varieties of roses available, each with their own charm and
special characteristics.
The
right location
The first step to planting a rose is selecting an appropriate location.
You must ensure that the site has plenty of sunlight, at least six hours each
day. Roses cannot tolerate deep and continuous shade. The site you
choose must also be sheltered from cold winds; a hedge or fence can protect a
rose from the wind, but it should not provide excessive shade. Roses do
best on a site that offers good air circulation. In order to keep your
roses healthy, do not plant them under trees or crowd them with other plants;
this hinders the circulation of air. Finally, the site must have
suitable soil conditions. Ideally, the soil should be medium loam,
slightly acidic, well drained and reasonably rich in nutrients and humus.
Roses do not thrive in soil that has high lime content, and high clay content
can also be harmful if it is not amended with humus.
Preparing
the soil
When preparing the soil for planting, you can begin by aerating the soil.
Work the soil over and then add humus and a rose fertilizer. Do not
throw out the smaller sized stones because they assist with water drainage and
help to aerate the soil. You should also remove any nearby weeds.
Planting
When planting container-grown roses, dig a hole that is wide and deep enough
for the soil ball. Before removing the rose from the container, make
sure it is thoroughly watered and then gently slide the container away from
the soil ball. It is generally recommended that your planting mixture
consist of 1 part soil, 1 part peat and a few handfuls of bone meal.
Bone meal is a good source of phosphorous which is critical for root
development. Before planting the rose, cover the bottom of the hole with
the planting mixture. Then place the rose in the hole, spreading out the
roots so that the planting mixture can surround the roots. Once the hole
is filled, gently tamp the ground to ensure that large air pockets are
eliminated. If you experience cold winters, the bud union (where
the bud and the rootstock are joined) should be below the soil surface by
approximately 2 to 3 cm.
Watering
How you water your roses is critical to their success. Keep a regular
watering schedule until the newly planted roses have established. They
should receive an equivalent of at least 2 to 4 cm of rain a week. When
watering roses be sure to soak the soil well; they need more than just light
sprays of water. Some other tips include watering in the morning, avoid
letting the water come into contact with the leaves and blooms, and providing
mulch so that the soil retains its moisture. Once roses are established,
their roots will have grown deep into the soil. As a result, they do not
require frequent watering.
Fertilization
Roses are demanding of the soil and its nutrients, so it is usually necessary
to apply fertilizer. Do not, however, fertilize newly planted roses
until after the first bloom. Generally, you can fertilize in the spring,
before the leaves are fully open, and again in June or July. If you want
to avoid using chemical fertilizers, you can try these organic alternatives:
alfalfa, bone meal, compost, fish emulsion, manure, and seaweed or soybean
meal.
Insects
and disease
You can keep your roses free from harmful insects and diseases by spraying
them regularly with an insecticide/fungicide. Be sure to read the
spraying instructions carefully before applying them to your garden.
There are organic ways of keeping your roses healthy. For example,
spraying the foliage with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1
tablespoon of dish soap to 1 gallon of water will usually prevent outbreaks of
black spot, rust and powdery mildew. Aphids strongly dislike garlic,
dill, fennel, coriander, tansy and marigolds, so having these plants in your
garden can act as an aphid repellent. If aphids do invade your garden,
they can be washed off plants with strong blasts of water.
Pruning
Pruning is an important part of rose maintenance that not only improves the
appearance of your rose, but its health as well. One of the main
purposes of pruning is to get rid of old, exhausted wood, which is no longer
able to produce flowers. There are some basic steps to follow when
pruning. First, cut out all dead, diseased and damaged wood. The
cut surface should be white; if it is brown, then you need to cut back
further. Next, you can cut thin stems, sucker growth, and stems that rub
against others. A pruning cut must be clean so use a sharp pair of
pruning shears, and remember to cut approximately 1 cm above an outward facing
bud. Pruning usually occurs in early spring, when buds begin to swell
but before leaves appear. There is an exception to this rule, however.
Roses that are spring bloomers produce blossoms on wood that has hardened over
the winter. You do not want to prune this old wood because that will
result in little or no flowering stems. Spring bloomers are to be pruned
approximately 3 months after blooming.
Pruning Roses
Rose plants need
pruning to tidy up their appearance; control size; and improve their vigor,
growing habits and bloom. Pruning methods vary according to the type of rose
plant. Prune about 3 to 4 weeks before the average date of the last killing
frost in your area. Roses have a very low chilling requirement to break
dormancy. A few weeks of cold weather in December fulfills this requirement
and new growth begins the first warm spell in January or February. If pruning
is done too early, the new growth begins at the base of the plant. A sudden
cold spell in late February or early March can severely damage or kill the
plant. If pruning is delayed, the new growth will still be in the top of the
unpruned canes and only upper portions of the bush will be damaged in a late
freeze. An exception to this rule involves climbing roses, which need to be
pruned after flowering in early spring.
Probably
no other aspect of growing roses has aroused as many questions as has the
subject of when and how to prune roses. By following a few simple rules you can
improve their appearance and vigor and control the quality and quantity of the
flowers. Pruning roses dates back to the nineteenth century when rose growers
began to severely prune their plants to produce larger blooms for show.
Unfortunately, plant longevity was of secondary importance to these
exhibitors. Some fundamental practices of pruning roses correctly in all
gardens, regardless of type, are: 1) remove any canes that have been damaged
by insects, diseases or storms; 2) remove one of two canes which may be
rubbing one another; or 3) remove canes that are spindly or smaller in
diameter than the size of a pencil. After pruning, according to these general
recommendations, cut hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras and polyanthas
back to 12 inches for large flowers and 18 to 24 inches for many smaller sized
flowers.
Climbing roses generally are
pruned to renew plant vigor by removing the old canes since the most
productive and finest blooms on climbers are produced on canes that arise from
the bottom of the plant the previous year. These newer canes produce more
desirable growth and flowers. Since the canes may become quite long, it is
necessary to prune them back so they are maintained in the desirable area.
Old fashion or antique roses
require much less pruning than modern roses. Left unpruned old fashion roses
will naturally obtain a rounded shrub shape. Pruning of these roses should be
confined to some shaping of the plant, removal of damaged branches, and
judicious trimming back to encourage growth.
On all roses, consider the
cutting of the flowers as a form of pruning. When gathering roses, always
leave at least two sets of leaves on the branch from which you cut the flower
to insure plant vigor. When removing faded, spent flowers, cut only as far as
the first five-leaflet leaf. When making cuts on the ends of branches, cut at
45-degree angles above an outside bud 1/2 inch above the bud with the lowest
point on the side opposite the bud, but not below the bud itself. When
removing branches, never leave stubs since these die and can cause problems on
the plant later. Always remove branches by cutting to a lateral branch or bud,
or back to the base of the rose plant.
When
to Prune
Pruning can actually be done at any time of the year;
however, recommended times vary with different plants. Contrary to popular
belief, pruning at the wrong time of the year does not kill plants, but
continual improper pruning results in damaged or weakened plants. Do not prune
at the convenience of the pruner, but rather when it results in the least
damage to the plant. There is little chance of damaging the plant if this rule
is followed. In general, the best time to prune most plants is during late
winter or early spring before growth begins. There are exceptions to this
rule, and they will be noted under the discussion of the specific plant
groups. The least desirable time is immediately after new growth develops in
the spring. A great amount of food stored in
roots and stems is used in developing new growth. This food should be
replaced by new foliage before it is removed; if not, considerable dwarfing of
the plant may occur. This is a common problem encountered in pruning. It also
is advisable to limit the amount of pruning done late in summer as new growth
may be encouraged on some plants. This growth may not have sufficient time to
harden off before cold weather arrives resulting in cold damage or winter
kill.
First of all, pruning redirects growth in the plant.
When parts of a plant are pruned off it uses its energies to produce new stems
and leaves. All pruning cuts should therefore be made just above a new outward
facing bud. A rose cane or stem will grow and bear flowers actively for a
number of years. However unlike a tree, it does not increase in size every
year; it eventually exhausts itself and dies. Roses that are left unpruned can
become a tangled mess of old and new canes all competing for air and light.
Pruning is essential to the health of the rose. Cutting out dead and diseased
wood will encourage the regular development of healthy new canes and
ultimately, the goal of all rose growers, beautiful masses of blooms.Using sharp secateurs or pruners and gloves to
protect your hands from thorns, first cut out all obviously dead, diseased or
damaged wood. Cut it out cleanly at the base. When you have made your cut,
look for white inside the stem. If it’s brown, cut further down. Healthy
wood is greenish white not brown. Next, cut out very thin, twiggy growth and
remove any stems that cross or rub together. Suckers should be ripped out from
their source. Do not cut them, as this will encourage more vigorous growth.
You are now ready to prune the bush to the desired height. There are 4 methods
from which you can choose. Try all four and see what results in the summer,
when your roses are in full bloom. Keep a notebook and record all your
experiments for future information.
The first method is called hard pruning. This is when
rose canes are severely cut back to 12 – 15 cm (4 – 5 inches). This method
is rarely used except for newly planted rose bushes, Hybrid Teas that are used
for exhibition, and for rejuvenating weak or neglected roses. Hard pruning
builds up a strong root system and stimulates the plant to produce new, strong
canes from the bud union.
The next method is called moderate pruning, where the rose canes are cut back
by about one half of their height. This is the pruning method generally
recommended for all established Hybrid Teas and Floribundas.
The third method is light pruning, where stems are
only cut back to less than two-thirds of their length. This method is not
generally recommended because it can produce a tall and spindly bush. However,
very vigorous roses can benefit from light pruning.
The last method, and the easiest, is aptly called the
easy-care method. Simply cut the bush in half, straight across with a hedge
trimmer. Leave all wood, but if you wish you can cut out all dead wood.
Interestingly enough, experts that have experimented with both the moderate
and easy care method, report that there are no noticeable differences later on
in the growth and bloom of the bush.
The time of year for pruning depends on where you
live. It is a good idea to prune back long canes in the fall before winter
winds and storms can cause wind rock or loosening of the roots. You can also
avoid damage or breakage of long canes if they are slightly cut back at this
time. Usually the best time to prune is in the early spring just as you see
the new growth beginning to bud. A word of caution: pruning too early may
cause buds to start growing in mild weather only to be killed by a late frost.
Pruning too late may weaken the plant, as the sap will have already begun to
flow and pruning would cause loss of sap. You must be the judge of the correct
time in your particular area and climactic condition. You can be safe to prune
when all chance of freezing is past. The exceptions to this are Ramblers,
which are pruned once they have finished blooming in late summer or early
fall. Gardeners in Northern climates sometimes wait until the Forsythia blooms
in their area before they feel it is safe to prune.
Pruning gives you a wonderful yearly opportunity to shape the growth and
health of your rose. Correct pruning encourages vigorous blooming and healthy
new shoots from the bud union. Removing old, dead and damaged wood allows the
plant to direct its energies into producing healthy new canes from the bud
union. Pruning is also important in warmer weather climates as it induces the
plant into a kind of dormancy, which is something that cold weather plants
automatically receive in the winter. If you remember that pruning is an annual
process of renewal, you won’t go wrong. Roses are very tough plants, able to
withstand all kinds of neglect and abuse. Don’t be afraid to prune, just go
ahead and start to experiment. You will be rewarded with your own valuable
experience and a bounty of sweet smelling roses!
Winter
care
Most varieties of roses need to be protected during the winter months.
You can add more soil around the base of the rose, approximately 8 to 10
inches, just before the ground freezes. This will protect the bud union,
which is the most vulnerable part of the rose. It is also beneficial to
place leaves and straw over the mound after the ground freezes. You may
also want to cut back any long stems that may contribute to wind-rock on windy
winter days.
The
reward
Knowledge and experience go a long way in gardening. Read all you can,
ask lots of questions and keep trying! A beautiful rose garden will be
your reward!
