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Tips For Gardeners: Study The Light |
Have
you ever been out in your garden on a beautiful, bright sunny afternoon when
everything is in bloom and thought, "Wow, I've got to get a picture of
this?" Then, after running back to the house for the camera and carefully
composing shot after fabulous shot, the pictures aren't what you envisioned. The
shadows are black and uninviting or the highlights are devoid of the lush colors
of the garden. Chances are, the culprit is the light, or more accurately, the
combination of light and film.
Film
can only "see" a small range of light to dark, unlike our eyes, which
can handle a much greater range. Next time it's bright and sunny, pull weeds
instead. Wait until the light mellows a bit in the evening to make your
pictures, or come back early in the morning and watch the soft light sweep over
the garden. Another great opportunity for photography is bright overcast, either
a slightly hazy day or that precise moment when a cloud is moving in front of or
away from the sun. Like so many things in life, timing is important, so remember
to study the light and choose your moments.
Light:
softer is better
Contrary to popular
belief, a sunny afternoon is not the best time to take pictures. This is
probably one of the biggest misconceptions, yet after looking at your pictures,
it doesn’t take long to realize that in many cases, softer light is a more
pleasing, complimentary light.
Bright, contrasty conditions with its corresponding—and distracting—dark
shadows aren't conducive to showcasing flowers, or many other subjects for that
matter. (Have you ever taken family pictures and noticed later that everyone has
dark eyes or [gasp] half-lit faces?).
In the garden, bright
light is tough to work with. For example, large petals of irises and lilies
block light and turn the center of the flower into a dark cave. Shiny rose
leaves act like mirrors and reflect light—which is what they are supposed to
do in nature, but it makes for white, shiny spots all over your pictures.
The soft, diffused light
of overcast and misty, foggy days is ideal for taking pictures in the garden.
The soft, even light creates richer colors and textures, and it makes it easier
to take light meter readings. You can see into the center of flowers, and
butterflies, birds and leaves are more evenly lit; and wider-angle
“gardenscapes” photos are more pleasing to look at.
You can avoid the bright
midday sun altogether by taking pictures in the early morning (before the
breezes start up) or later in the afternoon when lighting conditions have a more
pleasing and warm glow. When you can’t change time of day though, that’s
when my old Rule of Photography kicks in: do the best with what you’ve got!
So, let’s tone down the sun and create our own soft light.
On sunny days, you do
this by blocking—and diffusing—the sun with a piece of wax paper, a white
bed sheet or T-shirt, a white garbage bag, frosted glass or a sheet of faded
“clear” plastic (3 to 5 mil thick). Just hold the diffuser, prop it up on a
support, or have someone hold it for you between the sun and the object you’re
photographing. The diffuser blocks the sun and creates a soft light. See the
difference? The shadows are less prominent and not as distracting. Take two
pictures: one with the diffuser, and one without. I think you’ll be amazed at
the difference.
How
to prevent blurry photos
Out of focus pictures
are frustrating, but they are preventable. Most pictures that don’t “work
out” aren’t due to incorrect exposure, but because the subject is out of
focus. Even today's auto focus cameras don't guarantee picture-perfect results.
Therefore, you need to use a faster shutter speed, faster film or a way to
support your camera, such as with a tripod.
If
you don't have a tripod, you can brace your camera against a tree, fence post or
overturned bucket. Or set it on top of a shovel handle or stick like a
mono-pod.. To further dampen vibration, press your camera against a rolled-up
jacket that's placed on the tree or fence post.
Go with the flow!
The slightest breeze can
make a flower dance wildly when seen through a camera lens. If you want to calm
that gale, use a wind break made from materials at hand, such as a bed sheet,
piece of plywood, mat board, shirt, a couple buckets, or a wheelbarrow turned on
its side. Or, get creative and take the picture anyway. A longer exposure and
the movement created by the wind can add a beautiful watercolor look to your
photograph.
“Back light” for a change
"When taking a picture, place the sun at your back." This is a basic
rule of thumb, but it deserves to be broken. (The rule, not the thumb). To make
flowers really glow, back light them by placing the sun behind the flowers in
front of you. Change your exposures to create silhouettes or a striking
stained-glass look.
Last but not least...
It’s important to go
out and have fun with picture taking. Experiment with different lenses and
backgrounds. Get low and shoot up through flowers and trees. Include people, but
don’t have them look at the camera. Play with close-up photography techniques,
and remember, avoid putting your subject in the center of the picture!
On the next sunny day,
go on a treasure hunt. Photograph the same flower in different lighting
conditions. Compare bright and diffused light; front light and backlight in your
work. Most importantly, have fun. You'll never be wanting for subject matter, as
flowers are more than happy to pose.
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How To Photograph Flowers
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By New York Institute of Photography
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It's spring in
many parts of the world. For those of us who spent the winter trapped
inside, spring means, among other things, an irresistible chance to grab
the camera and start capturing the first blooms of the season. Yet, how
do you turn those shots of your favorite blooms into something special?
Here are some tips on how to take better flower pictures from the
world's largest photography school, New York Institute of Photography
(NYI).
First, walk around
the flower to see how it looks with light coming from different
directions. Watch carefully when the light (usually, the sun) is behind
the flower, coming toward the camera. Often, the petals will glow with
beautiful iridescence. This is called "backlighting" because
the light is coming from the back of the subject (in this case, the
flower). Backlighting is often the best type of lighting for translucent
subjects like petals.
However, don't
despair if there is no sun. Gray and overcast days provide great
opportunities for flower photography. The lighting is more even and
there are no shadows. Rain turns colors more intense. You can even carry
a spray bottle to create rain droplets on the sunniest of days. Even
night photography is an option. You'll be surprised at how attractive a
flower photo can be when illuminated by flash.
Second, to make a
flower picture come alive, wait until something adds life to the flower
- for example, a bee alights, or a spider crawls into it, or a
hummingbird pays a visit. It takes patience, but it pays off if, for
example, after you wait a few minutes, a butterfly lands on your flower.
Shoot! The picture you get will be great.
Three, try
interesting angles and backgrounds. Consider getting down low on the
ground or shooting with the wide angle setting on your lens. Don't
despair if the background behind the flower is unattractive. Try
replacing it with a colored piece of paper or fabric. There are lots of
different ways you can experiment.
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